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On a recent scorching day in New York City, I met my friend for a yoga class. We quickly said our hellos as we slapped our mats down in the humid room, which got even steamier as class went on. Afterward, while washing our hands side by side in the studio locker room, we took stock of ourselves in the mirror. We both had visible remnants of the day—hers in the form of faint white streaks at the perimeter of her face and mine, a brand new cluster of acne on my chin. It didn’t take long for us to realize we had the same problem: We’d both been wearing face SPF. And each of our brands had betrayed us.
This begs the questions: When sunscreen products sit on our faces from morning until night, which products protect without causing other issues? How do you avoid white marks and breakouts while still wearing SPF all day every day, including through your workouts?
How to Pick a Face SPF You Can Wear All Day
“I always tell my patients that the best sunscreen is one that they love to use,” says Andrea Cambio, dermatologist and member of the American Academy of Dermatology. Even so, not all face SPFs are created equal. Consider these pros and cons before you add (yet another) product to your cart.
Physical Sunscreens
Physical sunscreens contain minerals that sit on the skin’s surface and block UV rays. Also known as mineral sunscreens, they “tend to have broader spectrum coverage” compared to chemical sunscreens, Cambio says.
Although mineral sunscreens are typically what people think of as chalky lifeguard sunscreens, there are many brands now that are “easy to apply and look great,” says Hadley King, board-certified dermatologist and clinical instructor of dermatology at Cornell University. Specifically, look for formulas that are gel or clear because they typically dry more quickly and won’t leave those telltale white marks.
King explains the pros and cons of physical SPF:
Pros:
- Block a wide range of UV wavelengths, especially those that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
- Less likely to cause breakouts than chemical sunscreens
- Less likely to clog pores
- Often recommended for a variety of skin issues, such as dryness, sensitivity, acne, and rosacea
- More environmentally friendly than chemical sunscreens
Cons:
- Some formulas leave a white cast (try gel and/or clear formulas to avoid this)
- May feel heavier on skin than chemical sunscreens
Chemical Sunscreens
Chemical sunscreens, as the name implies, contain chemicals that transform UV rays into heat that the body then releases. Although chemical sunscreens generally apply to skin more seamlessly than physical sunscreens (no chalky marks), they may be more likely to cause breakouts in some people. In addition, certain ingredients in chemical sunscreens are linked to other potential health concerns. Still, many health professionals advise that wearing any sunscreen is better than leaving skin unprotected.
King weighs in on the pros and cons of chemical SPF:
Pros:
- Lightweight formulas
- No white cast
- Better water-resistant options compared to physical sunscreens, meaning they last better when you sweat or swim
Cons:
- Common chemical ingredients such as avobenzone and oxybenzone can cause breakouts
- Some contain parabens (ingredients beginning in propyl-, butyl-, isopropyl-, and isobutyl-) that may cause reactions such as rashes, especially in people with sensitive skin
- Oxybenzone and octinoxate are linked with potential hormone disruption and have been banned in some places
Check Your Label
Whether you choose to use a physical or chemical face SPF, Cambio advises checking the label for a few key phrases that can help you pick a product that’s less likely to create or exacerbate skin issues. The following phrases indicate the product doesn’t contain ingredients that typically clog pores and contribute to breakouts:
- Noncomedogenic
- Acne-free
- Oil-free
Consider Your Lifestyle & Preferences
If you’re overwhelmed by the number of face SPFs on the market—gel, lotion, stick—remember the best texture in a face SPF is the one you prefer.
“Texture doesn’t directly influence the percentage of UVB blocked,” says Cambio. You’ll also want to consider your lifestyle. If you participate in yoga or sports, you might consider a stick sunscreen because it’s convenient for on-the-go and allows for targeted application repeatedly throughout the day.
“Sticks are great on the scalp and face because they tend to hold up better on sweaty skin and not burn the person’s eyes,” Cambio adds. If you’re looking for a lighter feel, you may want to try a gel or lotion formula. A lot of 2-in-1 products (SPF plus moisturizer) are popular because they’re lightweight, but they are less likely to be water resistant, King says. So be sure to reapply often, especially if you’re sweating or swimming.
It’s often trial and error that reveals your favorite face SPF. As you try different products, be sure to monitor your skin for any adverse reactions because any ingredient can cause a reaction, notes King. Common symptoms of a reaction to sunscreen are that the skin becomes red, itchy, bumpy and possibly warm to the touch, swollen, and even weeping. If you have this type of reaction to face SPF or any skin care products, ditch the product or check its return policy (you kept the receipt, right?) and consult with a dermatologist or physician if needed.
